There might not be any events to wear this to just yet, but my mum seems very happy with the outcome of her birthday present! This fitted yellow shift dress was made using her measurements and a bit of pattern adjusting from a basic bodice. Find out the step-by-step process below.
Here's a sneaky photo of me wearing it rather than her!
Step 1
Pattern drafting/cutting: Fortunately I already had a basic bodice (down to the hip) drawn up with her measurements, as I used them recently for a project. As I planned to make a fitted shift dress, I only needed to extend the line straight down from the hip to where she wanted it (just above the knee). I also shortened the shoulder seam to 4cm and created a gentle slash/boat neckline. You can see me trying my best to create this on the front and back while folding over the darts on the paper pattern!
Step 2
The fabric: I now have quite an unhealthy relationship with this yellow fabric after making the dress! It’s quite a loose weave with thick yarn, almost like a hessian fabric, and the ease with which it fell apart created quite a lot of drama! But at this early stage I naively agreed to use it, as my mum had been gifted it and could see it as a summery dress. For the lining, my grandma gave me an old large bedsheet which has turned out to be perfect for the job! So I cut the front and back pieces out of both materials, although had to be a little creative with the back pieces in the outer fabric as there was limited material, so cut the bodice and skirt separately, and the bodice in two pieces.
Step 3
Sewing the darts: the nice and easy bit before sewing the pieces together! Although you tend to forget how many there are when you have lining as well…
Step 4
Sewing the back pieces together, then sewing up one side and at the shoulders for a first fitting: this was a little nerve-racking as the last time I made my mum a top with her measurements it was with a stretch fabric so there was room for a little error! The dress at this stage looked like it might be a little tight, particularly when sitting down. She didn’t really take to the idea of it just being a dress for standing events! So I decided to taper the side seam out from the waist to give another 2cm in total around the hips. I believe I then tried another fitting.
Step 5
Finishing the edges before sewing: in fact before I could go any further, I overlocked all the raw edges of the yellow fabric, as you can see it was falling apart before my eyes! This worked fine for the most part, although I had some trouble with the seams down the sides where I had already sewn a narrower seam. For the lining material, I chose the simpler route and used pinking shears around the raw edges.
Step 6
Pressing: it seemed like time to press the darts, so I did so at this stage, and also turned up the hem ready for sewing later on.
Step 7
Fixing the fabric issues: it was becoming more and more apparent that unless I reinforced the seams somehow down the sides of the skirt, it would continue falling apart. So I positioned some lining material behind one side, cut a rough piece about 1.5cm from the edge, and overlocked them together. For the other edge of the lining fabric I just used pinking shears.
Step 8
Sewing the yellow fabric to the lining: now this was a puzzle! Like a lot of people, I can sometimes be one to try as hard as I can to continue in the way I started, and refuse to backtrack and start again with a simpler method! I honestly couldn’t say how I sewed them together, as it was a lot of positioning the fabric here, pulling it through the armhole there, turning it upside down and inside out. And that was all before I worked out the way to do it! To sum up, it was rather fiddly, but for a good result
Step 9
Inserting the zip: I’m going to be completely honest with you, in that at first my mind was seeing an invisible zip before me and I was happy with that. So of course I sewed it on the way an invisible zip should be. False! It was a regular visible zip, so I unpicked it and sewed it on the right way round this time.
Step 10
The finishing touches: there were a few areas down the side seams which needed some further reinforcing stitches. I then hemmed both fabrics (the lining a little shorter), and rolled the lining fabric under for some final pressing with the iron. The last step: sewing in my label!
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